Knitting is linear. One stitch follow another, row follows row and piece follows piece until the whole is constructed. Crochet is linear, tatting, bobbin lace and weaving are all linear.
Sewing doesn’t have to be.
The patterns I have seen are mostly linear. They employ some efficiencies such as interfacing all pieces that need it and stay stitching all the parts needing it but otherwise, step follows step as the garment is constructed piece by piece.
I understand this. It works well for the novice to see the item constructed one piece at a time with instructions including directions to repeat (if needed).
My brain, however, doesn’t work that way. When it comes to constructing a garment, I jump ahead in the instructions (sometimes to my detriment) to see what can be done at the same time. Why do I do this? It saves time and energy.
Instead of sewing a piece and then jumping up to press the seam and then returning to my machine to do the next piece, I sew in chunks. I sew all independent seams at once and then press them appropriately. Then on to the next batch.
For example, this week I found myself cloning a pair of cargo pants for my son. To date I have tried two published patterns and found them wanting, One came only with a 4 hour long video which showed each and every step using hand signals to indicate what was happening (no verbal or written instruction at all) while the other was fine but just not to my son’s liking in terms of the pockets.
I thought about adapting the second pattern but found myself changing out so many parts that I finally decided to clone what he has and likes (and which is no longer available in stores or online).
I deconstructed the pants, traced out pattern pieces from the parts (added a little length) and set about reconstructing them from new fabric.
From the start I kept a list of what I wanted to do when. Initially I wrote out the list for the first three steps and later, listed the steps as I went or even, after I finished them.
The steps went something like this:
0: Interface:
Fly pieces
Waist band
Pocket Flaps
Zipper guard
1: Serge edges:
Pockets
Top of backs and fronts
Back yoke
1a: Serge together
Pocket flaps (rs facing)
Zipper guard
Waistband
2: Press:
Top and bottom edges of pockets turned under
Sides of all pockets
Pocket flaps (once turned right side out)
Zipper guard (once turned right side out)
3: Sew:
Top stitch:
Pocket openings: front, back, cargo
Pocket flaps
Join front and back waistband
And sew on …
By chunking my sewing into actions instead of garment pieces I am somewhat more efficient. Yes, I know that constructing garments by hand is not seen as efficient but I hate clothes shopping so yes, making it myself is both more efficient and more pleasant.
Do I sew step by step at times? Almost always when following a pattern for the first time. At the very least I have learned to read a pattern thoroughly before starting instead of jumping in feet first. After reading it I might choose to chunk a few steps but not until I first note down what can be chunked.
Just like the act of constructing a garment, either by sewing or knitting, feeds my soul and makes me happy, creating small (or large) efficiencies in the process also feeds my soul. To me, chunking is simplifying, And simplifying is good.
My son will periodically share how he has streamlined various processes at work. What had taken the previous employee hours takes him far less time. Why? Because, as he relates, he takes a small bit of time to figure out how to save a much larger amount of time..
That is what chunking does for me. By taking a few minutes to sort out the pieces at the start of construction I save time later on by not going back and forth from sewing machine to ironing board to serger to ironing board to sewing machine and, instead, do the same but far fewer times (which also saves electricity and time by not having the iron cool down and heat up again).
Will this work for everyone? Nope. It won’t even work for me all of the time. But it does work for much of my sewing and has the added benefit of making me happy and that is what it is all about!
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